Things to Do at Wat Phra Si Sanphet

Three bell-shaped chedis stand in a row like sentinels, each one holding the ashes of an Ayutthaya king. This was the holiest temple in the ancient capital - the equivalent of Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok today - and it sat within the walls of the Grand Palace itself. The 16-meter gold-covered standing Buddha that once dominated the complex was melted down by the Burmese in 1767 for its 250 kg of gold. What remains is brick and laterite skeleton, beautiful in its ruin. The three chedis were built in the 15th century, each commissioned by a different king to hold his father's ashes. They are perfectly proportioned - Sri Lankan-style bell shapes tapering to pointed finials - and they align east-west in a row that you can photograph from any angle. Walk behind them to the ruined Grand Palace foundations and the scale of what was lost becomes clear: this complex covered more ground than most European palaces, and it was the administrative and spiritual center of a kingdom that traded with China, Japan, Persia, and Portugal. Morning light (8-9 AM) hits the eastern faces of the chedis directly.

Wat Phra Si Sanphet sits in Ayutthaya's historical park, making it easy to reach by any transport method. Cycling works best here. Most guesthouses put you within a pleasant ride of the temple grounds. Tuk-tuks know the spot well-just say "Wat Phra Si Sanphet" and you're set. Parking exists near the entrance if you're driving your own vehicle. You can walk from Ayutthaya train station too. The 15-minute walk cuts through busy streets, but it's manageable for most visitors. Many people pair this temple with nearby Wat Mahathat during their historical park circuit.